Frequently Asked Questions

We offer a wide range of premium fabrics sourced from renowned mills worldwide:

• Linen: Italian linen from the CAVANI Sicily Collection (240gsm twill)
• Wool: Australian wool, flannels, and tweeds for cooler climates
• Cotton: Egyptian long-staple cotton
• And many more: We source fabrics globally to match your style and climate needs

Whether you need breathable linen for tropical weather or warm wool for winter, we have options for every season and occasion.

Care instructions vary by fabric type. General guidelines:

Linen:
- Dry clean recommended, or gentle hand wash in cold water
- Air dry flat, iron while damp
- Natural wrinkles are part of linen's elegant character

Wool (Flannels/Tweeds):
- Dry clean only for best results
- Store with cedar blocks to prevent moths
- Steam to refresh between cleanings

Cotton:
- Machine wash cold or dry clean
- Iron on medium-high heat
- Hang to prevent wrinkles

All garments: Hang on wooden hangers in breathable garment bags. Your order includes a care label with specific instructions for your fabric.

Not at all! While we're known for our CAVANI Sicily Collection linen (perfect for tropical climates), we offer a COMPLETE fabric range:

Linen:
- CAVANI Sicily Collection (240gsm Italian twill)
- Perfect for: Tropical climates, summer weddings, beach events

Wool:
- Australian merino wool
- Italian DRAGO premium wool
- VBC (world's oldest wool mill, Est. 1663)
- Flannels and tweeds for cold weather

Tweed:
- John & Taylor heritage tweeds (340gsm)
- Perfect for: Fall/winter, British style

Cotton & Blends:
- Egyptian long-staple cotton
- Wool-silk blends
- Cotton-linen blends

Browse our full collection at /shop/ - fabrics for every season, from Thailand summers to London winters.

Our CAVANI Sicily Collection Linen:
- 240gsm weight (substantial, not flimsy)
- Italian twill weave (stronger, more durable than plain weave)
- Pre-washed for shrink resistance
- Tightly woven = less wrinkling
- Color-fast dyes (won't fade in sun)

Cheap linen (mall brands, fast fashion):
- 120-160gsm (thin, see-through)
- Loose plain weave (wrinkles instantly)
- Not pre-treated (shrinks after first wash)
- Poor dye quality (fades quickly)
- Often blended with polyester (loses breathability)

You'll feel the difference the moment you touch it. CAVANI linen has weight, structure, and durability that cheap linen can't match.

Tropical/Hot Climates (Thailand, Singapore, Dubai, Florida):
- Linen: CAVANI Sicily Collection (240gsm) - most breathable
- Lightweight Wool: Tropical wool (220-260gsm) - wrinkle-resistant
- Cotton: Egyptian cotton blends

Temperate (Spring/Fall, Mild Winters):
- Medium Wool: 280-320gsm merino or DRAGO
- Cotton-Linen Blends: Versatile for transitional seasons

Cold Climates (Winter, Northern Europe):
- Heavy Wool: 340-400gsm flannels
- Tweed: John & Taylor heritage tweeds (340gsm)
- Wool-Cashmere Blends: Ultimate warmth + luxury

Not sure? Email us your location and occasion - we'll recommend specific fabrics.

Linen (CAVANI):
- Dry clean recommended for tailored structure
- OR gentle hand wash cold water (loses some crispness)
- Air dry flat, iron while damp
- Natural wrinkles are part of linen's character

Wool (Flannels, Tweeds, DRAGO, VBC):
- Dry clean ONLY (wool shrinks if washed)
- Steam between cleanings to refresh
- Store with cedar blocks (moth prevention)

Cotton:
- Machine wash cold OR dry clean
- Iron medium-high heat
- Hang to prevent wrinkles

All garments include care labels with specific instructions for your fabric choice.

We offer both Full Canvas and Half Canvas construction - never fused.

What's the Difference?

• Full Canvas: Canvas interlining runs entire jacket front, hand-stitched. Best for premium suits, daily wear, longevity.
• Half Canvas: Canvas in chest/lapel area, fused below. Budget-friendly, lighter weight.
• Fused (we DON'T offer): Glued interlining throughout. Found in mall suits, fast fashion.

Why Canvas Matters:

Drape: Canvas molds to your body over time - the suit gets better with wear. Fused suits stay stiff and eventually bubble/peel.

Breathability: Canvas allows airflow. Fused traps heat (glue blocks air).

Longevity: Full canvas suits last 15-20+ years. Fused suits degrade in 2-3 years.

Tailoring: Canvas can be altered significantly. Fused falls apart when altered.

Our Options:

• Half Canvas - Standard on all suits (excellent quality at our price point)
• Full Canvas - Available as upgrade option

How to Tell the Difference:

Pinch the fabric below the lapel buttonhole. If you feel three layers moving independently (outer fabric, canvas, lining), it's canvas. If it feels like one stiff piece, it's fused.

Bottom Line:

At $590-800, we deliver canvas construction that $300 mall suits can't match. Your suit will drape better, breathe better, and last decades - not years.

Lapels frame your face and set the tone of your suit. Here's how to choose.

Notch Lapel
- Look: V-shaped notch where lapel meets collar
- Formality: Business standard, versatile
- Best for: First suits, office wear, interviews, most occasions
- Our recommendation: Default choice for 80% of customers

Peak Lapel
- Look: Lapels point upward toward shoulders
- Formality: More formal, more fashion-forward
- Best for: Formal events, double-breasted suits, making a statement
- Body type: Visually broadens shoulders, great for narrow builds

Shawl Lapel
- Look: Smooth, rounded collar without notch
- Formality: Evening wear, black tie
- Best for: Tuxedos, dinner jackets, formal occasions only
- Note: Rarely appropriate for business settings

Quick Decision Guide:
- Job interview: Notch
- Office daily: Notch
- Wedding (guest): Notch or Peak
- Wedding (groom): Peak or Shawl
- Black tie: Peak or Shawl
- First custom suit: Notch

Width Matters Too: Slim lapels (2.5-3") are modern, medium (3-3.5") are classic, wide (3.5-4") are bold/vintage. Match lapel width to your tie width and body frame.

Yes - we make double-breasted suits. They're bold, confident, and not for everyone.

What is Double-Breasted?
- Two columns of buttons (usually 6 buttons, 2 functioning)
- Overlapping front panels
- Always worn buttoned
- Peak lapels standard

Who It Flatters:

Great for:
- Taller men (5'10"+) - the extra fabric won't overwhelm
- Slimmer builds - creates visual width and presence
- Confident dressers - it's a statement piece
- Formal occasions - weddings, galas, power meetings

Challenging for:
- Shorter men - can look overwhelming
- Heavier midsections - draws attention to stomach
- Casual settings - too formal for most offices

Style Notes:
- Always buttoned: Unlike single-breasted, you never unbutton a DB
- No vest needed: The overlapping fabric already adds formality
- Belt or braces: Trousers should sit at natural waist, higher than modern low-rise

Modern vs Vintage:
- Vintage (1940s): Wide lapels, boxy shoulders, looser fit
- Modern: Narrower lapels, natural shoulders, more tapered

We can do either - just tell us your preference.

Our Recommendation: If you've never worn DB, try one on before ordering custom. Once you're sure, custom DB is stunning - the fit makes all the difference.

Yes - we offer functional buttonholes on sleeves (surgeon's cuffs).

What Are Surgeon's Cuffs?

Real buttonholes that actually open and close, as opposed to decorative buttons sewn on top of fake buttonholes. The name comes from surgeons who could roll up their sleeves without removing their jacket.

Why It Matters (Or Doesn't):

Arguments FOR:
- Traditional bespoke detail
- Shows attention to quality
- Allows sleeve roll-up (rarely done in practice)
- "Those who know, know" - subtle flex

Arguments AGAINST:
- Sleeves can't be lengthened after (buttonholes are permanent)
- Most people never notice
- Slightly higher cost
- If fit changes, sleeves can't be altered easily

Our Recommendation:

For first-time custom buyers: Skip them. Your body may change, and non-functional buttons allow future sleeve adjustments.

For experienced custom buyers with stable measurements: Consider them as a finishing detail.

How to Order: Select "Working buttonholes" in our sleeve customization options, or mention it when you select "Contact Me" at checkout.

Note: Once functional buttonholes are cut, sleeve length is permanent. Make sure your draft fitting sleeve length is exactly right before we add this detail.

Yes - we offer monogramming and custom embroidery.

Common Placements:
- Inner jacket lining: Most popular - visible when jacket opens, hidden when worn
- Cuff lining: Subtle, visible only to you
- Under collar: Hidden personalization
- Shirt cuff or chest: For dress shirts

What You Can Add:
- Initials: Classic 2-3 letter monogram
- Full name: More formal
- Date: Wedding date, anniversary, meaningful numbers
- Custom text: Short messages, mottos
- Logos: Company logos (additional charge may apply)

Font Options: We offer several font styles from classic script to modern block letters. You'll approve the design before production.

Colors: Match your lining, contrast for visibility, or keep subtle with tone-on-tone. We'll recommend based on your fabric choices.

Pricing: Standard monogramming (initials, single color) is available in customization options. Complex embroidery (multiple colors, logos) may have additional charges - we'll quote during consultation.

Timeline Impact: Minimal - monogramming adds 1-2 days to production.

How to Order: Select monogramming during checkout customization, or mention it when you select "Contact Me" for custom requests.

We offer 60+ lining options ranging from classic solids to bold patterns.

Solid Colors:
- Classics: Navy, charcoal, black, burgundy, royal blue
- Neutrals: Camel, silver, grey
- Bold: Red, purple, emerald green, gold
- Match or contrast your suit color

Patterns:
- Paisley: Classic menswear pattern, multiple colorways
- Stripes: Subtle vertical stripes
- Geometric: Modern patterns
- Custom prints: Contact us for unique requests

Lining Types:
- Full lining: Entire jacket interior lined. Best for structure and formal suits.
- Half lining: Back is unlined or mesh. Breathable for summer/warm climates.
- Unlined: Maximum breathability. Casual blazers only.

Fabric Quality: All our linings are silk or high-quality viscose (Bemberg). No cheap polyester.

How to Choose:
- Conservative: Match lining to suit color (navy suit = navy lining)
- Classic pop: Burgundy or red lining in navy suit
- Bold statement: Paisley or bright contrast
- Ultra-subtle: Tone-on-tone

Visibility: Lining shows when you take off your jacket, reach into inner pockets, unbutton, or hang your jacket. Choose based on how much personality you want to reveal.

Yes - multiple options depending on your needs.

Option 1: High-Quality Online Images (Free)

Our product photos show true fabric colors and textures with multiple angles, close-up texture shots, and color-accurate photography. For most customers, this is sufficient.

Option 2: Request Physical Swatches

Contact us at support@linensuit.shop with the specific fabrics you're considering. We can mail small swatches for you to see in person.
- Cost: Shipping cost only
- Timeline: 1-2 weeks depending on location
- Best for: Customers deciding between similar colors or textures

Option 3: Bangkok Hotel Service (Best)

If you're visiting Thailand, we bring our complete swatch collection to your hotel:
- 200+ fabric samples
- See, touch, and compare in person
- Expert guidance on fabric choice
- Same visit: measurements + fabric selection

What Swatches Show: True color (screens vary), texture and weave pattern, weight and drape feel, how light interacts with fabric.

What Swatches Don't Show: How the fabric looks as a finished garment, how it moves with your body. That's what the draft fitting is for - you'll see your chosen fabric draped on your body before final production.

Our Recommendation: Start with online images. If deciding between 2-3 similar options, request swatches. For the full experience, visit Bangkok.

Two distinct lines, both Italian cotton, different characteristics:

Italian Cotton Collection — $115
- Weight: 180gsm (medium, year-round)
- Finish: Standard premium
- Patterns: 14 styles — plains, herringbone, twill, dobby textures, subtle stripes
- Best for: Foundation wardrobe, daily rotation, versatile basics

Premium Cotton Collection — $120
- Weight: 190gsm (slightly heavier)
- Finish: Silky finish (smoother hand feel, photographs beautifully)
- Patterns: Extensive variety — bengal stripes, windowpane, gingham, candy stripe, pinstripe, tattersall, chambray, graph check, and more
- Best for: Statement shirts, client-facing roles, video calls, pattern lovers

The $5 Difference:
The Premium line uses a silky finish treatment that adds smoothness and structure. The extra 10gsm creates a more substantial drape. Both are Italian cotton, both include draft fitting.

How to Choose:
- Building a foundation wardrobe? Start with Italian Cotton (180gsm)
- Want statement patterns that photograph well? Go Premium Cotton (190gsm)
- Not sure? Order one of each — your pattern works for both lines

Note: Our online collection is curated and growing. We contact every customer within 24 hours before cutting to confirm details — if you have specific preferences not shown, let us know.

Four collar styles, each suited to different faces and occasions:

Business Collar (Most Popular)
- Classic point collar with moderate spread
- Works with any tie knot
- Best for: Most face shapes, office wear, interviews
- Our recommendation for first-time buyers

Spread Collar
- Wider angle between collar points
- Shows more of your tie knot
- Best for: Round faces (elongates visually), confident dressers, fashion-forward looks
- Works well without a tie too

Straight Collar (Button-Down)
- Collar points button to shirt
- Most casual of the options
- Best for: Smart casual, no-tie looks, weekend wear
- Not ideal for formal occasions

Hidden Button Collar
- Buttons hidden under collar points
- Clean look of spread collar with stability of button-down
- Best for: Those who want structure without visible buttons

Face Shape Guide:

With or Without Tie:
- Always wearing ties? Business or Spread
- Rarely wearing ties? Spread or Straight
- Both? Spread is most versatile

Not Sure? Start with Business collar — it's called "business" for a reason. Works everywhere.

Want Something Different?
Don't see the collar style you want? Place your order and mention your preference in the notes. We contact every customer within 24 hours before cutting to confirm all details. If you have a reference photo or specific request, share it — we're not limited to what's shown online. Our catalog is curated, but our capabilities are much broader.

Italian Cotton (180gsm) — 14 Patterns:
- Solid plains (white, blue, pink, etc.)
- Herringbone weave
- Twill weave
- Dobby textures
- Subtle stripes

Premium Cotton (190gsm) — Extensive Variety:

Classic Stripes:
- Bengal stripe — Bold 1/4" width stripes, most popular pattern
- Pinstripe — Thin, formal, boardroom-ready
- Candy stripe — Medium width, versatile
- Multistripe — Multiple stripe widths, statement piece

Checks & Plaids:
- Gingham — Small checks, casual/approachable
- Windowpane — Bold grid pattern, confident choice
- Graph check — Subtle small grid, modern
- Tattersall — Colored lines on white, country style
- Plaid — Scottish influence, casual

Textures:
- Chambray — Denim-like appearance, casual
- End-on-end — Two-tone weave, subtle texture

Pattern Formality Guide:

Mixing Patterns:
- Solid suit + patterned shirt = always works
- Patterned suit + solid shirt = safe choice
- Pattern + pattern = make sure scales differ (small check tie + wide stripe shirt)

All patterns available in both lines get the same draft fitting process.

Don't See Your Pattern?
Our online collection is curated — we're constantly adding new options. If you have a specific pattern in mind (a reference photo, a pattern name, something you saw elsewhere), place your order and tell us. We contact every customer within 24 hours before cutting to confirm details. We can often source what you're looking for.

Yes and no — here's the smart approach.

Don't Match Exactly:
Wearing a shirt in the exact same fabric as your suit looks like a uniform, not an outfit. The pieces blend together instead of complementing each other.

Do Coordinate Colors:

Pattern Coordination:

• Solid suit: Any shirt pattern works (your chance to add personality)
• Patterned suit: Solid shirt or small-scale pattern only
• Rule: Never match pattern scales (wide stripe suit + wide stripe shirt = disaster)

What We Can Do:

While we don't make shirts in suit fabrics, we can help coordinate:
- Recommend shirt colors that complement your suit order
- Suggest pattern combinations
- Build a capsule wardrobe (3 suits + 6 shirts that all work together)

Order Together:
When you order suits and shirts in the same order:
- Upper body pattern (from suit) + separate shirt pattern = both saved
- Coordinate fitting timelines
- Ship together when both complete

Contact us if you want help building a coordinated wardrobe — we'll suggest specific fabric and pattern combinations.