You've acquired fabric from one of the world's finest mills. Maybe you purchased it directly in Italy. Perhaps it came from an estate sale, still wrapped in its original paper. Or someone who knew quality gifted it to you.
Now you need a tailor worthy of the cloth.
Our CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) service exists precisely for this situation. You provide the fabric; we provide the craftsmanship. But not all premium fabrics behave the same way. Here's what you need to know about the world's most respected mills—and how to prepare your cloth for tailoring.
Scabal (Belgium)
Founded: 1938
Headquarters: Brussels, Belgium
Known For: Innovation, luxury blends, exotic fibers
Scabal isn't just a mill—it's a laboratory. They pioneered fabrics woven with gold thread, diamond dust, and lapis lazuli. But beyond the headlines, Scabal produces some of the most consistent, beautifully finished wool suiting in the world.
Best Collections for Suits
- Noble — Their flagship. Super 150s-200s wool with remarkable drape.
- Summit — Worsted wool with natural stretch. Excellent for travel suits.
- Tornado — Crease-resistant wool. Ideal for business wear.
What to Look For
Scabal cloth typically comes with a distinctive selvedge (the finished edge) marked with the collection name. Authentic Scabal has tight, even weaving with no loose threads. Weight usually ranges 240-300 gsm for suiting.
CMT Considerations
Scabal's Super 150s+ fabrics are delicate. Our draft fitting process is essential here—you don't want to cut $500 cloth without proving the fit first.
Ermenegildo Zegna (Italy)
Founded: 1910
Headquarters: Trivero, Italy
Known For: Vertical integration, wool excellence, sustainability
Zegna controls the entire process—from Australian sheep farms to finished cloth. This vertical integration means unmatched quality control. When you buy Zegna fabric, you're buying a century of expertise.
Best Collections for Suits
- Trofeo — Their signature. Super 130s Australian Merino with silk-like hand.
- High Performance — Technical wool that resists wrinkles and recovers quickly.
- Traveller — Natural stretch wool for comfort and movement.
- Micronsphere — Ultra-fine 13.9 micron wool. Among the finest in the world.
What to Look For
Zegna fabrics have a recognizable softness—almost buttery. The weave is exceptionally uniform. Look for the Zegna label woven into the selvedge or printed on the backing paper.
CMT Considerations
Zegna's Trofeo and Micronsphere require careful handling due to their fineness. Our Bangkok master tailors have decades of experience with these grades.
Cerruti (Italy)
Founded: 1881
Headquarters: Biella, Italy
Known For: Innovation, fashion-forward patterns, consistent quality
Cerruti supplied fabric to Hollywood costume departments for decades. If you've seen a well-dressed character in a major film, there's a good chance they wore Cerruti.
Best Collections for Suits
- Cerruti 1881 — Classic business suiting. Reliable, refined.
- Travel Resistant — Wrinkle-resistant wool for frequent flyers.
- Prestige — Super 150s for special occasions.
What to Look For
Cerruti is known for rich colors and interesting textures. Their navy and charcoal cloths are industry standards. Check for the "1881" branding on the selvedge.
CMT Considerations
Cerruti fabrics are generally forgiving to work with—good body, consistent behavior. An excellent choice if you're new to CMT.
Loro Piana (Italy)
Founded: 1924
Headquarters: Quarona, Italy
Known For: Cashmere, vicuña, the world's finest natural fibers
Loro Piana doesn't just make fabric—they source the rarest fibers on Earth. Their cashmere comes from specific Chinese and Mongolian goats. Their vicuña (the most expensive fabric in the world) comes from protected Peruvian herds.
Best Collections for Suits
- Four Seasons — Year-round Super 130s wool.
- Tasmanian — Super 150s from Tasmania's high country.
- Wish — Super 170s. Remarkably soft.
- Cashmere Blends — Wool-cashmere for luxury suiting.
What to Look For
Loro Piana fabric feels different immediately. There's a depth to the hand that cheaper fabrics can't replicate. Their cloth often has a subtle luster without being shiny.
CMT Considerations
Loro Piana commands premium prices for a reason. If you own it, you want it cut right. Our fit guarantee applies to all CMT orders—including your Loro Piana.
Other Notable Mills
Dormeuil (France/UK)
Founded 1842. Known for the "Amadeus" collection and exceptional British-French heritage. Their Iconik collection offers remarkable crease resistance.
Holland & Sherry (UK)
Scottish heritage since 1836. Famous for their tweed, flannel, and classic British suiting. If you have H&S cloth, it's likely exceptional quality.
Vitale Barberis Canonico (Italy)
One of the oldest mills in the world (1663). Known for excellent value at the luxury tier. Their Super 110s and 120s offer remarkable quality for the price.
Fox Brothers (UK)
English flannel specialists since 1772. If you have Fox Brothers cloth, it's almost certainly flannel—and it deserves to become a proper British-style suit.
Drago (Italy)
The value play in luxury fabrics. Drago produces Super 130s cloth that competes with mills charging twice as much.
How to Buy Premium Fabric
Already have fabric? Skip to the next section. Looking to acquire some? Here's how:
Direct from Mills
Some mills sell directly to consumers:
- Merchant & Mills — Curated selection of premium cloth
- Dugdale Bros — UK retailer with access to major mills
- The Hanger Project — Sometimes stocks Scabal and others
Estate Sales & Vintage
Older fabric is often finer than modern equivalents. Mills could access wool grades that no longer exist. Check condition carefully—any moisture damage, moth holes, or discoloration affects suitability.
Fabric Markets
If you travel to Italy (Biella, specifically), you can sometimes find mill ends and seconds at remarkable prices. Same quality, just shorter runs.
Authenticity Checks
- Selvedge markings — Most premium mills mark their edges
- Hand feel — Premium wool feels alive, not plastic
- Weight consistency — Even weave, no thin spots
- Documentation — Reputable sellers provide mill certification
How Much Fabric Do You Need?
Before shipping anything, confirm you have enough:
| Garment | Fabric Required |
|---|---|
| Two-piece suit | 3.0 - 3.5 meters |
| Three-piece suit | 3.5 - 4.0 meters |
| Blazer/Sport coat | 1.8 - 2.2 meters |
| Trousers | 1.5 - 1.8 meters |
Important: These are estimates. Taller customers, larger sizes, or specific pattern matching (plaids, checks) require more fabric. We'll confirm exact requirements during your CMT consultation.
Preparing Your Fabric for CMT
Before Shipping
- Inspect thoroughly — Check for any damage, stains, or moth activity
- Photograph everything — Document the selvedge, any labels, overall condition
- Note the details — Mill name, collection, weight, composition if known
- Measure accurately — Confirm total length and width
Shipping Tips
- Roll, don't fold — Folding creates creases that may not come out
- Use a tube — Cardboard shipping tubes protect rolled fabric
- Waterproof wrapping — Plastic bag inside the tube prevents moisture damage
- Insurance — Ship with declared value and tracking
What to Tell Us
When you contact us about CMT, include:
- Mill and collection name (if known)
- Fabric weight and composition
- Total length you're shipping
- What you want made
- Any specific design requests
Your Fabric Deserves Master Craftsmanship
Scabal. Zegna. Cerruti. Loro Piana. These names represent generations of textile expertise. The sheep that provided the wool. The craftspeople who wove the cloth. The mills that refined their processes over centuries.
That fabric in your possession carries all of that history.
Don't trust it to anyone who would cut first and hope for the best. Our draft fitting process ensures your premium cloth becomes exactly what you've imagined—without risking a single centimeter until the fit is proven.
Start your CMT consultation — Select "CMT / Bring Your Own Fabric" and tell us about your cloth.
