Two paths lead to a custom suit. One: you choose from a tailor's fabric collection, and they handle everything. Two: you bring your own fabric, and they provide the craftsmanship.
Neither is inherently better. The right choice depends entirely on your situation.
Here's how to decide.
What is Full-Service Tailoring?
Full-service means the tailor provides everything—fabric selection, measurements, construction, and finishing. You choose from their inventory, they guide your decisions, and a finished garment arrives at your door.
What's Included
- Access to tailor's fabric collection
- Expert guidance on fabric selection
- Measurements and pattern creation
- Full construction
- Shipping
Pros
Convenience. One relationship, one process. No sourcing fabric separately.
Guidance. Not sure which fabric suits your needs? A good tailor helps you decide.
Fabric guarantee. If something goes wrong with their fabric, they replace it.
Simpler logistics. No shipping fabric internationally. No customs paperwork.
Cons
Limited selection. Even large collections can't stock every mill's offerings.
No special materials. Want that specific discontinued Scabal? They probably don't have it.
Less control. You're choosing from what they offer, not the entire market.
What is CMT Tailoring?
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) means you provide the fabric; the tailor provides the labor. You source your own cloth—from any mill, any collection, anywhere in the world—and they transform it into a garment.
What's Included
- Pattern creation from your measurements
- Cutting your fabric
- Full construction
- All trims (buttons, lining, thread)
- Shipping
Pros
Complete fabric control. Any mill. Any collection. Any weight. Your choice.
Use what you have. Inherited fabric? Travel finds? Finally put them to use.
Access discontinued cloth. Mills stop producing patterns. CMT lets you use vintage finds.
Often cheaper. You're paying only for labor, not markup on fabric.
Cons
You source the fabric. That's work—finding it, verifying quality, shipping it.
Logistics complexity. International shipping, customs, ensuring enough yardage.
Higher stakes. Your fabric, your risk—unless the tailor has a process to eliminate that risk.
When to Choose Full-Service
You're New to Custom Clothing
First suit? Full-service makes sense. You'll benefit from a tailor's guidance on fabric weight, pattern appropriateness, and construction choices. Learning alongside an expert beats figuring it out alone.
You Want Guidance on Fabric
Not everyone knows the difference between Super 120s and Super 150s, or when to choose worsted over flannel. Full-service tailors educate while they serve.
You're Time-Constrained
Sourcing fabric takes time. Researching mills, finding retailers, shipping internationally—it adds weeks to the process. Full-service is faster.
You Trust the Tailor's Selection
A good tailor curates their collection carefully. If you trust their taste and quality standards, their selection might be all you need. Our fabric range includes Italian, Australian, and Egyptian materials specifically chosen for quality and versatility.
When to Choose CMT
You Already Own Premium Fabric
This is the clearest case. Fabric in your closet serves no one. CMT transforms it into something you'll actually wear.
You Want Specific Mill Fabric
Maybe you want Scabal's Noble collection, or a specific Zegna Trofeo pattern. Unless a tailor happens to stock exactly that, CMT is your only path. Our fabric guide covers the major mills and what to expect.
You Found Fabric While Traveling
Italy. UK. Japan. Fabric markets exist worldwide, and sometimes you find cloth that doesn't exist anywhere else. CMT lets travel discoveries become garments.
You Inherited Special Cloth
Your grandfather's Dormeuil. Your father's collection. Fabric with history deserves to become something meaningful, not sit in a drawer.
You're Experienced with Custom Clothing
If you know your measurements, understand fabric weights, and have a clear vision—CMT gives you maximum control.
Cost Comparison
Here's where it gets interesting.
Full-Service Pricing
Typically bundles fabric and labor. A $700 suit might include $200 of fabric and $500 of work. You pay one price; the tailor manages margin.
CMT Pricing
You pay separately:
- Fabric cost (whatever you paid)
- Labor cost (our CMT starts at $350 for a half-canvas suit)
When CMT Saves Money
If you find premium fabric at a discount—estate sales, mill ends, travel purchases—CMT can be significantly cheaper than full-service with equivalent fabric.
Example:
- Full-service suit with Zegna Trofeo: ~$1,200+
- CMT suit with Zegna Trofeo you bought for $200: ~$550 total
When Full-Service is Better Value
If you'd pay retail for fabric anyway, the savings disappear. A $400 fabric + $350 CMT labor = $750. That might match or exceed full-service pricing for similar quality.
Bottom line: CMT saves money when you have fabric access at below-retail prices. Otherwise, it's about control, not cost.
The Risk Factor
Here's what most comparisons miss.
Full-service tailoring puts risk on the tailor. Their fabric, their problem if something goes wrong.
Traditional CMT puts risk on you. Your fabric, your loss if the tailor makes a mistake.
Our approach changes this. Draft fitting means we prove the fit before touching your fabric. We create a complete test garment first, you approve it, THEN we cut your cloth.
This eliminates the traditional CMT risk. Your Scabal gets the same protection as if you'd chosen from our collection.
Our Recommendation
New to custom tailoring? Start full-service. Learn the process with our guidance. Explore our fabric collection and let us help you choose.
Have fabric you love? CMT with draft fitting. Your cloth, our craftsmanship, zero risk. Start a CMT consultation.
Not sure? Contact us. We'll discuss your situation and recommend honestly—even if that means suggesting full-service over CMT.
The goal isn't to sell you one service over another. It's to get you into a suit that fits perfectly, made from fabric you love.
