Custom Tailoring Process

CMT Tailoring: How to Get a Custom Suit from Your Own Premium Fabric (Without the Risk)

5 min read
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You found the perfect fabric. Maybe it was during a trip to Italy, where you discovered a bolt of Loro Piana cashmere that felt like nothing else. Perhaps you inherited your father's collection of Scabal cloth. Or you've been eyeing a specific Zegna fabric that no tailor in your area carries.

Now you face the problem: finding someone skilled enough to turn that fabric into a suit without ruining it.

Most tailors won't touch customer-supplied fabric. The few who do often cut first and hope for the best. One wrong measurement, and your $500 fabric becomes an expensive mistake.

There's a better way.


What is CMT Tailoring?

CMT stands for Cut, Make, Trim—the industry term for when you provide your own fabric and a tailor handles everything else:

  • Cut — Cutting the fabric to your measurements and pattern
  • Make — Constructing and sewing the garment
  • Trim — Finishing with buttons, lining, thread, and details

In traditional tailoring circles, this is also called "own goods" or "customer's own material." It's how bespoke has worked for centuries—you source the cloth, the tailor provides the craftsmanship.

The difference today: most online tailors only work with their own inventory. They can't—or won't—work with fabric you provide.


Why Choose CMT?

You Found Fabric That Doesn't Exist in Catalogs

Premium mills like Scabal, Dormeuil, and Loro Piana produce thousands of fabrics. No tailor stocks them all. CMT lets you access any fabric from any mill—even discontinued cloth or vintage finds.

You Already Own Premium Fabric

Inherited cloth from a father or grandfather. Fabric purchased during travels. A special piece you've been saving. CMT transforms fabric with sentimental or monetary value into a garment you'll actually wear.

You Want Specific Mill Fabrics

Our standard fabric collection includes Italian, Australian, and Egyptian materials. But if you want a specific Zegna Trofeo, a particular Holland & Sherry tweed, or that exact Cerruti navy—CMT makes it possible.

Local Tailors Can't Deliver the Quality

You might have the fabric but not access to skilled tailors. Bangkok's master tailors, trained in bespoke techniques for generations, provide craftsmanship that rivals Savile Row—at accessible prices.


The Risk Everyone Worries About

Here's the truth: most tailors refuse CMT work because the stakes are high.

When a tailor uses their own fabric and makes a mistake, they absorb the cost. When they use YOUR fabric and make a mistake, your irreplaceable cloth is ruined.

This fear isn't irrational. Stories exist of beautiful Scabal fabric cut wrong, vintage Dormeuil pieces destroyed by poor construction. Once cut, there's no recovery.

This is why most online tailors don't offer CMT. The risk is too high. The margin for error too small.

But what if you could eliminate that risk entirely?


How Draft Fitting Changes Everything

Our draft fitting process is what makes CMT safe.

Here's how it works:

We never touch your premium fabric until you've approved the fit.

Instead, we create a complete test garment in plain muslin or cotton first. You receive this draft fitting, try it at home, and tell us exactly what needs adjusting. Shoulders too wide? We fix it. Chest too tight? We adjust. Length off? We correct it.

Only after you confirm the fit is perfect do we cut your actual fabric.

This is the same process $3,000+ Savile Row tailors use. The difference: we don't charge $3,000.


Our CMT Process: Step by Step

Step 1: Initial Consultation

Contact us through our support page (select "CMT / Bring Your Own Fabric") or WhatsApp. Tell us:

  • What fabric you have (mill, weight, composition if known)
  • What you want made (suit, blazer, trousers)
  • Any specific design requests

We'll confirm the fabric is suitable and discuss your vision.

Step 2: You Ship Your Fabric

Send your fabric to our Bangkok facility. You cover this shipping cost—it's your investment traveling to us.

Important: Send enough fabric. A two-piece suit typically requires 3-3.5 meters. A blazer needs 1.8-2.2 meters. We'll confirm exact requirements during consultation.

Step 3: Submit Your Measurements

Follow our measurement guide or use our Pattern Service ($49) if you have a well-fitting garment to send.

Step 4: Draft Fitting Created & Shipped

We create your test garment in plain fabric. This draft fitting ships to you anywhere in the world—shipping included.

Step 5: Try It at Home

This is where CMT becomes risk-free. Put on the draft fitting. Check everything:

  • Shoulder alignment
  • Chest comfort
  • Back fit
  • Sleeve length
  • Trouser break
  • Overall silhouette

Take photos. Note what feels off. Nothing is permanent yet.

Step 6: Virtual Fitting Session

We review your feedback together. Mark every adjustment needed. This conversation ensures nothing is missed before we proceed.

Step 7: Final Garment Cut and Constructed

NOW we cut your precious fabric—with complete confidence in the fit. Your suit is constructed by Bangkok master tailors with full attention to detail.

Step 8: Delivery

Your finished garment ships worldwide—shipping included. Typical timeline: 5-7 weeks for CMT orders (slightly longer than standard due to the consultation process).


What's Included in CMT Service

Full Customization

Your fabric, your choices:

Construction:
- Full canvas (traditional, shapes to your body over time)
- Half canvas (lighter, excellent drape)

Lining:
- Silk
- Bamboo (breathable, eco-friendly)
- Bemberg/Cupro (smooth, durable)

Buttons:
- Horn (classic, natural variation)
- Corozo (tagua nut, sustainable)
- Mother of pearl (luminous, formal)
- Wood (unique, casual)

Thread:
- Matching (seamless look)
- Contrast stitching (distinctive detail)

Design Details:
- Lapel style and width
- Pocket configurations
- Vent options
- Monogramming

What We Cover

  • Draft fitting shipping to you
  • Return shipping for draft (if needed)
  • Final garment shipping worldwide
  • All consultations
  • Fit guarantee

What You Cover

  • Your fabric shipping to Bangkok

CMT Pricing

You're paying for craftsmanship, not fabric. Our CMT prices reflect the skilled labor of creating your garment:

Garment Starting Price
Suit (Full Canvas) $450
Suit (Half Canvas) $350
Blazer $280
Trousers $150

Includes: Draft fitting, full customization, all shipping (except your fabric to us), fit guarantee.

Final pricing depends on construction choices and design complexity. Contact us for a personalized quote.


Which Fabrics Work for CMT?

Ideal for CMT

  • Premium wool suiting — Scabal, Zegna, Cerruti, Loro Piana, VBC, Drago
  • English tweeds — Fox Brothers, Abraham Moon, Johnstons of Elgin
  • Luxury linens — Irish, Belgian, Italian origins
  • Fine cotton shirting — Thomas Mason, Albini, Canclini

We'll Advise On

  • Vintage or older fabrics (condition matters)
  • Unusual materials (velvet, heavy coating fabrics)
  • Very lightweight fabrics (may need special handling)

Not Suitable

  • Damaged or stained fabric
  • Insufficient yardage
  • Fabric with significant stretch (unless specifically designed for tailoring)

During consultation, we'll confirm your fabric is appropriate before you ship anything.


Why Bangkok for Your Premium Fabric?

Your Zegna wool deserves better than a local alterations shop. Bangkok tailoring represents generations of bespoke expertise—trained by Italian and British master tailors, refined over decades of serving diplomats, military officers, and executives.

The tailors working on your CMT garment have likely handled fabric more expensive than yours many times. They understand how premium cloth behaves, how it should be cut, and how to construct garments that honor the material.

Combined with our draft fitting process, you get Savile Row methodology with Bangkok craftsmanship—at prices that make CMT actually accessible.


Frequently Asked Questions

What if my fabric isn't enough for what I want?
We'll tell you during consultation. Better to know before shipping than after cutting.

Can I send fabric from anywhere in the world?
Yes. Customers have sent fabric from Italy, UK, USA, Australia, Japan. Just ensure proper customs documentation.

What if I'm not happy with the final garment?
Our fit guarantee applies to CMT orders. We stand behind our work.

How long does the whole process take?
Typically 5-7 weeks from fabric arrival to delivery. See our full timeline breakdown.

Can I do CMT for shirts?
Yes. Shirts start at $80 for CMT. Same draft fitting process applies.


Ready to Transform Your Fabric?

You've invested in premium cloth. Now invest in craftsmanship that matches.

Start your CMT consultation:

  1. Contact us — Select "CMT / Bring Your Own Fabric" and describe your project
  2. WhatsApp — Send photos of your fabric for quick assessment
  3. Email — support@linensuit.shop with details and images

Your Scabal doesn't deserve to sit in a closet. Your inherited fabric wasn't meant to be forgotten. Your Zegna should become the suit you've imagined.

Send us your fabric. We'll create something worthy of it—with zero risk to your investment.


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